Hi! I'd like to have more details about how silkscreen printing works, the type of ink you used as well as any relevant info which could help me duplicate this very interesting technique...
Thanks for sharing this!
CD Silk Screeing
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algorhythm
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Hi -
OK here is the technique -
1). first you need the art - it has to be not too fine of stuff or else it won't come out. Avoid really thin lines and no blends of colors. Line-art works well (as you can see).
2). Next you print the art onto vellum. This is a special paper that is transparent. It is at art stores.
3). Next, you have to burn the image onto your screen. A silk screen isn't really silk any more. The Chinese invented the technique long ago, but now it is done with polyster instead and the name remains. You need a bright light to burn the emulsion off of the screen (The basic concept is this - there is an emulsion [a kind of waxy stuff] on the screen. The light burns off the emulsion in places where the image is, but not anywhere else - the idea is that the ink will pass through the screen, but not through the emulsion).
Steps 2 and 3 you can have a screen shop do to save hassle. It will cost you though. Also, remember that each color needs a different screen, which increases cost. That is why I used only black - ( plus it looks cool and minimal
). An alternative is buying a screen printing kit from an arts and crafts store for $40 or so and doing it yourself. This is what I would have done if I didn't have a friend that works at a screen printing shop.
4). Next, you apply the screen to the CD and squeegee the ink across the screen. The pressure passes the ink through the poreous screen, but not through the emulsion. We used a little mounting board with a circle outline for where the CD goes. Also, we put little holes in the board and attached a vacuum cleaner to keep the disc in place while working. It really takes two people - One to put the discs in place and remove them to the drying area and one to operate the screen and ink.
5). Let the discs dry. That is it.
OK, the ink - it needs to be enamel screen printing ink. NOT VINYL INK THAT IS USED ON SHIRTS. The vinyl ink is standard for screen printing. It will peel off of CDs too easily and heat might be a problem. It would work in a pinch, but is less desirable. Enamel is harder, but quick drying so you have to work fast. It is really strong - I cannot even scratch it off the disc with a fingernail. It is expensive - $40 a quart or so, more for special colors. But a quart will seriously last for 10,000 discs or so.
It is surprisingly simple to do and very fast. We did the first 200 discs within an hour. That was even allowing for time to perfect the technique within that hour. I think we can do the next batch of 300 in less than an hour. The only problem was that I got dizzy running and spinning from the press to the drying table and back and forth back and forth in circles.
and the fumes didn't help too much either
well thats it. let me know if you have questions.
OK here is the technique -
1). first you need the art - it has to be not too fine of stuff or else it won't come out. Avoid really thin lines and no blends of colors. Line-art works well (as you can see).
2). Next you print the art onto vellum. This is a special paper that is transparent. It is at art stores.
3). Next, you have to burn the image onto your screen. A silk screen isn't really silk any more. The Chinese invented the technique long ago, but now it is done with polyster instead and the name remains. You need a bright light to burn the emulsion off of the screen (The basic concept is this - there is an emulsion [a kind of waxy stuff] on the screen. The light burns off the emulsion in places where the image is, but not anywhere else - the idea is that the ink will pass through the screen, but not through the emulsion).
Steps 2 and 3 you can have a screen shop do to save hassle. It will cost you though. Also, remember that each color needs a different screen, which increases cost. That is why I used only black - ( plus it looks cool and minimal
). An alternative is buying a screen printing kit from an arts and crafts store for $40 or so and doing it yourself. This is what I would have done if I didn't have a friend that works at a screen printing shop.4). Next, you apply the screen to the CD and squeegee the ink across the screen. The pressure passes the ink through the poreous screen, but not through the emulsion. We used a little mounting board with a circle outline for where the CD goes. Also, we put little holes in the board and attached a vacuum cleaner to keep the disc in place while working. It really takes two people - One to put the discs in place and remove them to the drying area and one to operate the screen and ink.
5). Let the discs dry. That is it.
OK, the ink - it needs to be enamel screen printing ink. NOT VINYL INK THAT IS USED ON SHIRTS. The vinyl ink is standard for screen printing. It will peel off of CDs too easily and heat might be a problem. It would work in a pinch, but is less desirable. Enamel is harder, but quick drying so you have to work fast. It is really strong - I cannot even scratch it off the disc with a fingernail. It is expensive - $40 a quart or so, more for special colors. But a quart will seriously last for 10,000 discs or so.
It is surprisingly simple to do and very fast. We did the first 200 discs within an hour. That was even allowing for time to perfect the technique within that hour. I think we can do the next batch of 300 in less than an hour. The only problem was that I got dizzy running and spinning from the press to the drying table and back and forth back and forth in circles.
and the fumes didn't help too much either well thats it. let me know if you have questions.
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algorhythm
- Posts: 1139
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2001 4:00 pm
- Location: Tennessee, USA
- Contact:
Good question Eliam - this is the part I am not sure on the physics/chemistry off -> The emulsion melts off where the image IS, and stays where the image IS NOT. Perhaps it is due to the heat of the light on the black image and not due to the light itself(?)
I'll ask my screen-printer friend and repost if I am wrong . . .
I'll ask my screen-printer friend and repost if I am wrong . . .
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algorhythm
- Posts: 1139
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2001 4:00 pm
- Location: Tennessee, USA
- Contact:
-
algorhythm
- Posts: 1139
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2001 4:00 pm
- Location: Tennessee, USA
- Contact:
Well, I haven't bought the kit (yet) so I have no results to report.
About the kit and process - the screen looked to be of high quality and was the same thread-per-inch as the ones at the shop I did the CDR screening at.
The photo-emulsion process is the industry standard one, same as done at the shop. I have a flash bulb, it'll do the trick in 10mins.
The ink is meant for paper, so nothing wrong there for doing the albums, and the enamel stuff can be purchased online, I'm sure.
It isn't complicated. What is the problem? I don't see anything to be laughed at, and you don't need to be a sharp engineer. Sure, the graphics need to be good, but that is not technical. The process itself is quite simple - the only thing the "pro" excel in is scale as far I can tell. I wouldn't advise doing large prints at home this way, but it would work for small batches.
I'm doing a second EP that should be out within two months. Of course, I'll post my results here.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: algorhythm on 2002-10-13 22:37 ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: algorhythm on 2002-10-13 22:38 ]</font>
About the kit and process - the screen looked to be of high quality and was the same thread-per-inch as the ones at the shop I did the CDR screening at.
The photo-emulsion process is the industry standard one, same as done at the shop. I have a flash bulb, it'll do the trick in 10mins.
The ink is meant for paper, so nothing wrong there for doing the albums, and the enamel stuff can be purchased online, I'm sure.
It isn't complicated. What is the problem? I don't see anything to be laughed at, and you don't need to be a sharp engineer. Sure, the graphics need to be good, but that is not technical. The process itself is quite simple - the only thing the "pro" excel in is scale as far I can tell. I wouldn't advise doing large prints at home this way, but it would work for small batches.
I'm doing a second EP that should be out within two months. Of course, I'll post my results here.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: algorhythm on 2002-10-13 22:37 ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: algorhythm on 2002-10-13 22:38 ]</font>