Prodyssey Yamaha FC7 Foot controller?

[Le Bone]

According to the Prodyssey manual the only Foot controller that should be used is the Yamaha FC7. Otherwise it can break the Prodyssey.

Having looked for this all over it is rather expensive starting at 50 quid (inc UK VAT) plus postage in the UK. Especially considering it is just a pot in a pedal and contains nothing electronic!

Does any one know of a one for one substitute that is good or even a cheap souce for these as I now want to use my foot to tinker with the ASB as I have now run out of hands!

I have seen a few articles that suggest that Korg have relabelled the FC7 as one of their own.

Does anyone know anything more on a cheap korg substitute or point me to a cheap FC7. US prices for the FC7 are dirt cheap, but then I have to pay extra shipping and duty!

Thanks

Bone

[Le Bone]

I ended up buying a FC-7 from the US.

Now regards the footswitch!

The manual says nowt about the spec for that. Is it a momentory non-moment....latching/non latching etc?

Once I know I will either get one from Maplins or canabalise my old Piano and make a pedal from a sustain pedal.

I am thinking about creating some wood side panels to my Prodyssey and PRO-12 to make them look similar to the minimax/PRO-12 combo (from old bits of my piano!) so I can realise some desk estate. Anyone got any handy tips?

[fx1mark]

I would take two ends off of the units, right or left and lay them on a piece of paper. find the angle you would like for the upper one and trace thier outlines. you may want to shorten the distance between the two so they are nice and close to each other. draw lines connecting the two. I would draw almost straight down from the back of the upper unit to the bottom to create a support so you won't have any problem with it trying to fall back. mark the screw holes, remove the inside of a pen and stick it through the holes. use that as a template to mark your wood. use some carbon paper and transfer your drawing. you may want to make a mockup first out of cardboard or some thin plywood and see if it looks right. if you get it done and it looks good post some pictures.

[dawman]

FC7?

I use it now that I tamed it's excessive jumps, but it is an expression pedal. I believe you are confusing it with the FC5, which works well with the B2003 as a speed switch for the rotary effect.

I found that the best expression pedal IMO was the M Audio. I bought one used for 15 USD on ebay as there was no reserve, no bids and free shipping. The seller, as most do, had it in the computer catagory which resulted in no bids.

BTW, how are your device panels coming along in Cubase for the Klangboxes?

[Le Bone]

Scope4Live,

As per the Prodyssey ASB manual it says I should ONLY use a FC7 or the Prodyssey will break/blowup/bust etc! So that is what I have done. I went with what was in the manual.

However there is another socket on the back for a footswitch which is for portamento and I need to know what sort of switch that needs.

I have done nothing with the Device Panels since my Prodyssey Device Panel:

1) Creamware, INDSP and Soniccore are not fixing the Bugs in Prodyssey ASB so I have had to spend alot of money buying a G2X to give me the correct sound when I want to use sync and ring mod together.

2) I got rid of my Prodyssey Klangbox as it did not give me the sound I wanted, had no visual display of controls and was just not right for my needs.

3) I do not have a Minimax so I do not need to produce a panel. I have a PRO-12 which at some point I may create a device, once somwone has helped me correct issues the Prodyssey panel.

4) I have had (apart from Scope4live) absolutely zero feedback regarding the panels (not even a thankyou or can you change.....). Nobody even offered to assist me with the presets and other bits I could not get working!!

So have therefore decided to spend my valuable time doing other things such as teaching my 7 month old son how to play keyboards and learning Prince2!!!

[Le Bone]

I would take two ends off of the units, right or left and lay them on a piece of paper. find the angle you would like for the upper one and trace thier outlines. you may want to shorten the distance between the two so they are nice and close to each other. draw lines connecting the two. I would draw almost straight down from the back of the upper unit to the bottom to create a support so you won't have any problem with it trying to fall back. mark the screw holes, remove the inside of a pen and stick it through the holes. use that as a template to mark your wood. use some carbon paper and transfer your drawing. you may want to make a mockup first out of cardboard or some thin plywood and see if it looks right. if you get it done and it looks good post some pictures.

Thanks fx1mark, sounds like a great and workable plan. Easy to miss out things without consultation, especially the bit about support as I do not want it to end up as a see-saw with knobs on.

[dawman]

I think a console style wooden panel the length of a 88 note controller which would sit above an 88 noter on a keyboard stand would be way cool.

You could fit 3 or 4 ASB's alongside of each other with fast access to each of them, all in a nice wooden surface.

My live performance ideas sometimes get the best of me.

Nice Chattin' @ U Brotha' Man LeBone,

[gregae]

I think a console style wooden panel the length of a 88 note controller which would sit above an 88 noter on a keyboard stand would be way cool.

You could fit 3 or 4 ASB's alongside of each other with fast access to each of them, all in a nice wooden surface.

Here's a simple desk-style "console" I built using some scrap lumber. The base is just a flat piece of plywood, with a smaller tilted platform mounted on top of that. The tilted platform has a short lip in the front to keep the Minimax (and other gear) from falling forward. The whole assembly sits on a Quicklok stand.

Not the prettiest thing, but quite functional...

[slammah2012]

I would take two ends off of the units, right or left and lay them on a piece of paper. find the angle you would like for the upper one and trace thier outlines. you may want to shorten the distance between the two so they are nice and close to each other. draw lines connecting the two. I would draw almost straight down from the back of the upper unit to the bottom to create a support so you won't have any problem with it trying to fall back. mark the screw holes, remove the inside of a pen and stick it through the holes. use that as a template to mark your wood. use some carbon paper and transfer your drawing. you may want to make a mockup first out of cardboard or some thin plywood and see if it looks right. if you get it done and it looks good post some pictures.

Thanks fx1mark, sounds like a great and workable plan. Easy to miss out things without consultation, especially the bit about support as I do not want it to end up as a see-saw with knobs on.

And make sure you can still access the ins and outs easily on the "bottom / forward" unit as you will be making most of your Audio and midi connections blindly....if the tops are flush to each other

[ohmstudiste]

Does anyone tried to connect another expression pedal as the Yamaha FC7 ?
I have a M-Audio but due to the strong recommandation in the manual, I didnot want to risk the life of the unit.

[andyr1960]

Does anyone tried to connect another expression pedal as the Yamaha FC7 ?
I have a M-Audio but due to the strong recommandation in the manual, I didnot want to risk the life of the unit.

Hi,

Just to let you know that I use the M-Audio Pedal with the Prodyssey, with no problems

Andy.

[steven2948]

The Yamaha FC-7 foot controller has one small difference over most 'standard' foot controllers. The potentiometer is wired differently, if you swap the tip and ring connections over in the jackplug of a normal foot controller you have a FC-7. I believe there are a couple of Korg pedals also like this. If you have the wrong type of pedal, it can't cause damage but you will have a very narrow range of control all at one end.

So you can purchase a cheapy pedal with a tip.ring sleeve jack plug ( proel et al ) rewire the jack plug and bobs your grandad! you could also open up the pedal and swap over the wiper and one of the pot 'ends' but check with a coninuity tester first to make sure you get the right end. You can't cause any damage at all, if you get the wiring wrong the pedal will either work backwards or have a limited range.

I recently purchased 3 identical Proel Pedals, and I had to modify one of them in this way to get it to work with my Yamaha CS1X which also 'needs' a FC-7. The others I use with Kurzy's and worked out of the box.

[radar23]

Hello,

I bought the yamaha pc-7 pedal for only $100 Australian, which is about US$90 these days. The m-audio was only about $20 cheaper here in my town.

The Yamaha pedal is built like a tank, it has a heavy steel contruction and a large foot area. It is also designed so you can set it for standing use or seated use and It has a fortissimo function when you depress the pedal beyond the 30 degree travel.

All in all I think for the extra dollars the yamaha pedel is worth it.

I have used this pedel with my ensoniq esq-1 and as stated else where in this topic, the yamaha pedal only gives a very small travel range for the full foot control message range.

data from the manual

Minimum RT (Sleave and tip) 50(+/-)30% (K ohms)
Maxmum RT 50(+/-)30% (K ohms)
Min RV (Ring and tip) 50(+/-)30% (K ohms)
Max RV n/a

weight 1.3kg,
dimentions 116x58x250mm

SO there you go.