Hi
Can I simply attach the appropriate cable from syncplate to Pulsar2 card inside my pc case and velcro/attach the card somewhere inside and run wordclock cables to outside. I have no external slots left.
How big is the card? Can I take the slot plate off to slim it down?
Does the syncplate really make that much difference to digital sync stability?
I have managed to fit a Pulsar and Pulsar2 in my MCI Hetis barebones. It is 2U high and bout 14" deep! yehaaw.
Sync Plate Installation
yes, this should work IF you make sure that the parts of the card that need ground contact ARE grounded - i.e if you remove the 'metal parts', provide an alternative contact to the chassis.
The thing seems to be ground sensitive and there IS current in it.
Do it at your own risk, tho
there is an improvement if the sync plate gets it's signal from a high quality studio clock, in particular if several digital devices have to work together - according to those with better gear than me...
if all you want is to connect is a A16ultra (or similiar) you can safely ignore the sync plate.
It would be pretty strange if the clock provided by the Scope card is more solid (or on par) with one coming from a device costing at least as much as the DSP board and does nothing but a single clock signal
there are a lot of things more that can go wrong on mixing and recording than a few picoseconds of clock deviation...
see the <a href=http://www.planetz.com/forums/viewtopic ... 9>trolling thread in OT forum</a>
cheers, Tom
btw: I removed my Pulsars from a MSI barebone recently as it got simply too hot. No fan is allowed to consume more than 5V in this room...
you clearly win on DSP count (10 versus my 8 ), but did you also resolder caps to the other side of the circuit board to make it fit ?
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: astroman on 2005-10-05 05:11 ]</font>
The thing seems to be ground sensitive and there IS current in it.
Do it at your own risk, tho
there is an improvement if the sync plate gets it's signal from a high quality studio clock, in particular if several digital devices have to work together - according to those with better gear than me...
if all you want is to connect is a A16ultra (or similiar) you can safely ignore the sync plate.
It would be pretty strange if the clock provided by the Scope card is more solid (or on par) with one coming from a device costing at least as much as the DSP board and does nothing but a single clock signal
there are a lot of things more that can go wrong on mixing and recording than a few picoseconds of clock deviation...
see the <a href=http://www.planetz.com/forums/viewtopic ... 9>trolling thread in OT forum</a>
cheers, Tom
btw: I removed my Pulsars from a MSI barebone recently as it got simply too hot. No fan is allowed to consume more than 5V in this room...
you clearly win on DSP count (10 versus my 8 ), but did you also resolder caps to the other side of the circuit board to make it fit ?
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: astroman on 2005-10-05 05:11 ]</font>
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blazesboylan
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I don't remember how long the sync cable is, but you may have trouble reaching from the sync plate to the Pulsar card if they're not stacked on top of each other... I'll investigate tonight.
Is it worth it? I agree with Tom's opinion -- a word clock is pretty pricey ($350-600 for the various Lucid options... and way more for Apogee Rosendahl etc). In retrospect I probably would have been better off upgrading my monitors. Oh well. Live and learn.
Is it worth it? I agree with Tom's opinion -- a word clock is pretty pricey ($350-600 for the various Lucid options... and way more for Apogee Rosendahl etc). In retrospect I probably would have been better off upgrading my monitors. Oh well. Live and learn.
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blazesboylan
- Posts: 777
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2002 4:00 pm
- Location: The Great White North
- Contact:
Thanks guys
Just got back from holiday.
I havent modified the boards at all to fit in the hetis. I modified the hetis tho. Took out floppy (which was actually an internal hd) and CDROM (replaced with internal drive caddy/HD) to give more room for cards. I still have 2x int HD then BTW
So if I attached a wire from chassis (say between one of the motherboard screws) to a metal part of card, (say the screw that holds the face plate but take face plate off), then would earthing would be sufficient?
I already have a Lucid clock feeding RME Digiface on mac, Mixtreme on PC, RME Fireface on lappy, 02R and DA38. I'm finding unstable clocking in scope by using adat input from Digiface. This is of coarse 2nd generation clock source.
The pulsars have become my main mix environment By using pulsar pc for GS3 with 32 outputs. I end up with more inputs than 02R and more flexability. I can then split the studio into two rigs easily as well.
I'm hoping 8 or 9" of sync cable should be enough. I dont suppose someone could give me some dimensions of the sync card. No need to include face plate. Thanks in advance man. Peace.
Just got back from holiday.
I havent modified the boards at all to fit in the hetis. I modified the hetis tho. Took out floppy (which was actually an internal hd) and CDROM (replaced with internal drive caddy/HD) to give more room for cards. I still have 2x int HD then BTW
So if I attached a wire from chassis (say between one of the motherboard screws) to a metal part of card, (say the screw that holds the face plate but take face plate off), then would earthing would be sufficient?
I already have a Lucid clock feeding RME Digiface on mac, Mixtreme on PC, RME Fireface on lappy, 02R and DA38. I'm finding unstable clocking in scope by using adat input from Digiface. This is of coarse 2nd generation clock source.
The pulsars have become my main mix environment By using pulsar pc for GS3 with 32 outputs. I end up with more inputs than 02R and more flexability. I can then split the studio into two rigs easily as well.
I'm hoping 8 or 9" of sync cable should be enough. I dont suppose someone could give me some dimensions of the sync card. No need to include face plate. Thanks in advance man. Peace.